Indonesian Bird Market, Java, Indonesia

Photos

Every significant town in Java has a bird market. This is because just about every self-respecting Javanese, Sundanese or Madurese man (the three major ethnic groups of Java) owns at least one pet bird—unless he’s destitute.

They don’t seem to care much at all what a bird looks like. I’ve seen some of the ugliest birds highly valued by Indonesian friends. It’s their song or crow that seems to matter the most. Traditionally this was because they believed that the song of some birds warded off evil spirits.

Hybrid roosters—the offspring of a wild forest rooster deceived into mating with a domesticated hen & producing a unique sounding crow—are valued as mascots.

But cooing turtledoves are far more common. Many are trained for massive singing contests where the winner takes home enough money to buy a house.

On Java, an island the size of Louisiana but with a population of over 130 million people, it’s an understatement to say that bird life is under pressure. The pet bird business has probably helped to keep a few popular breeds out of the danger of extinction. But that’s up for debate.

A visit to the bird market can be quite a cultural experience—especially on the weekend when they’re packed full of men in the market for a new pet.

Not only are the tropical birds fascinating. Their bamboo cages are colorful and—true to Javanese art—intricate. Some are small masterpieces.

But brace yourself, there’s a sad side to the bird market. Apart from birds & fish they also deal in some animals that you will justifiably feel disturbed to see in small cages—like baby monkeys, & sometimes even mountain lion cubs. Some are kept in deplorable conditions. There doesn’t appear to be much conscience about how wild animals are treated. Animal rights is not a concept; to these Indoneisan sellers making money is the only concept.

One really unique animal you can see in the market is the luwak (LOO-wak). This civet cat is the one that produces the world’s most expensive coffee—kopi luwak. This creature forages through coffee trees as they approach harvest season. They reputably have a nose for picking the very finest coffee beans, swallow them, & then pass them when they defecate. Long ago some overly curious soul harvesting coffee saw the beans sticking out of the civet cat’s poop & wondered, “What would a cuppa that taste like?”